Chinchilla Dust Bath Dust – What Is Best?

Special chinchilla dust bath may be purchased here.  It’s specially made to imitate the dust they would normally find in their natural habitat to take a bath in. Beware of buying similar powders or sand that may look the same, but won’t penetrate your chinchillas fur down to the skin to fully cleanse them.

To give your chinchilla a dust bath, you may purchase a ceramic chinchilla bath or find a big, heavy bowl that won’t tip over and put the dust into it. It should be just a bit larger than your chin that will be using it. A slightly enclosed container works perfect for this (like a canister or fishbowl). Make sure there’s about a half inch of dust in the bottom and stick it in your chinchilla cage when they are most active (evening is a good time).

You can reuse the dust if it looks fairly clean s long as you clean any clumps out after each use. If it gets dirty or too clumpy, then it’s time to throw the old dust out and refill your container with new stuff. You shouldn’t leave the dust bath in their cage all the time, as too much can dry their skin out and they might start using it for their litter box. Leaving the dust in the cage can also cause eye irritation, so it’s best just to take it out after it’s been used.

How Often Should I Set Up Chinchilla Dust Baths

Offering your chinchilla the dust bath around twice a week is usually enough to keep them clean. You can give them more though, if their fur starts to feel damp or oily. If you live in a more humid climate, then you’ll want to give your chin more dust baths. You should allow about 10-15 minutes of good rolling for a thorough cleansing. If you find their skin is becoming dry and flaky then try decreasing bathing time and frequency a little.

Just like many things that your chinchilla does, watching them take a dust bath can be pretty entertaining. It’s so different than what we’re used to, and very cute!

Not only did the Eliminate smell like (Apples) a much better smell to clean your home with then the natures miracle.  But my dog finally stopped going on that spot that I kept using the natures miracle on.  I was thrilled!  Not to mention the gallon size eliminate is also cheaper then the natures miracle gallon size bottle.

A strong Stain & Odor Remover with natural Enzymes & Cleaners to remove even the toughest Pet odors & stains! Great for removing stains from carpet, upholstery, pet bedding, tile, vinyl, formica and more. Also aids in housebreaking by eliminating the ododrs that keeps pets returning to the same spot!

Eliminates Pet Urine Odor, Stains from Feces, Vomit, Blood, Grease, Dirt, Smoke & More!! Available in Regular and Extra Strength for stubborn stains.

Nature’s Miracle Stain and Odor Remover

In nature, countless enzymes break down organic debris and waste to refresh the earth. In your home, Nature’s Miracle uses these same enzymes to transform household organic stains and odor-causing materials into a liquid that you simply wipe away. Other exclusive Nature’s Miracle ingredients speed up the work of enzymes, restoring freshness and luster to soiled areas.

Ingredients: Water, Nature’s Enzymes, Isopropyl, Alcohol, and Natural Citrus Scent.

Frontline provides long lasting flea and tick control. Frontline products for dogs and cats are highly effective and easy-to-use.

Frontline kills Fleas for an entire month. It comes in a 3 month supply or a 6 month supply. It is a bit more expensive then other flea products that are on the market but this one works the best.

Frontline is also waterproof. You can take your dog swimming and bath them and not have to worry about applying more applications wich can become costly.

This product is also gentil enough to use on puppies and kittens 8 weeks of age and older without weight restrictions.

Frontline Plus is available in one dosing size for cats but is administered according to the weight of your dog in four dosing sizes: up to 22 lbs., 23–44 lbs., 45–88 lbs., and 89–132 lbs.

Applying is easy:

frontline

Start by giving the dog a bath. It is important that his/her fur is nice and clean so the Frontline is sticking to the dog, not dirt. The fur should also be free of mats so take care of any grooming issues your pet might have. Pretty much you want your dog to be nice and clean and to have a nice coat. Flea shampoo is not necessary.

It is very important that your dog is completely dry before you apply the Frontline so doing this the day before is a good idea.

Next

: Remove applicator from child-resistant package. Use scissors, or lift and remove plastic tab to expose foil, then peel down.

Open applicator. Hold upright and snap applicator tip away from face and body.

After opening the vial, part your dog’s fur right between his shoulder blades and squeeze it all in. You want it all to be in one spot, it will spread out over the dog by itself.

It is important to get it down to the skin so it doesn’t just roll off. The good news is that it is pretty forgiving so don’t worry too much if it goes on kind weird.

And that’s it, you are done.

Eyes should be bright, clean, even sized, and free from discharge.

They should have long, full whiskers. Short or broken whiskers may indicate poor nutrition or infections.

The coat should be soft, full, and clean.

The kits should have a long, muscular, athletic body. They should also have a large firm belly.

They should be playful, and gentle.

They should also be curious and not fearful of new things.
Companion ferrets do not have to be purchased together. An adult ferret will readily accept another adult or kit. It is not advisable however, to house a male ferret that has not yet been neutered, with other ferrets unless the intention is to breed as they become territorial during the breeding season and may kill the other ferrets

Ferrets are very social animals and prefer the company of people or another ferret rather than being alone. They can share the house with dogs and cats but should be carefully watched when together
Ferrets are very inquisitive and mischievous animals that can squeeze into very small holes. Beware of household objects such as washing machines, recliner chairs, dishwashers, and refrigerators. Ferrets love to crawl into the mechanisms and can be seriously injured as a result.

What you will need for your ferret:

Cage- Many people keep their ferrets in a cage or very well-ferretproofed room whenever they can’t be supervised. This drastically reduces the risks of digestive-tract blockages from swallowing indigestible objects, injury, and escape.

However, even if you plan to let your ferrets have the run of the house at all times, you’ll want a cage at first for litter-training and other kinds of training as well as for temporary use. If you plan to keep your ferret caged whenever you’re not home, and you’ll be gone most of the day, a reasonable cage size is about 2 X 3 feet and 2 feet high (60 X 100 X 60 cm). A second or third ferret could share that size cage. If you’ll only be using the cage temporarily, such as when you’re vacuuming or taking your pet on a weekend trip, 1 X 2 X 1 feet (30 X 60 X 30 cm) is sufficient for one or two ferrets. Of course, the bigger the cage, the better. For trips around town, a shoulder or duffel bag equipped with a litter pan and mesh window works well.

Playpen – Creating a safe place for your ferret to play can include using a commercial playpen or by restricting your ferret to one room that has been ferret-proofed.

Food – Fiesta or Kaytee ferret food is always a good choice.

Food Dish – plastic or ceramic is fine

Water Dish or Bottle – I would suggest a ceramic water bowl so they cant tip it over easily.

Litter Pans – Make sure the sides of the pan are pretty high, since ferrets habitually back into corners to deposit their wastes and you don’t want messes over the sides of the pan. However, one side of the pan should be low enough that your ferret can get in and out easily. You can also use cat litter for ferrets.

Bedding – Ferrets love hammocks and things they can hide in. They make alot of nice things that ferrets enjoy playing with.

Ferret Shampoo – Any ferret shampoo will do. Some ferrets may be frightened the first few times of taking a bath and may nip you.

Nail Clippers – Ferret or cat nail clippers are fine to use.

Toys – A hammock is always a good choice, Plastic balls, with or without bells, hard rubber toys, but be sure they can’t get stuck in your ferret’s mouth, and take them away when they start to crack.

Collar with Bell – This is a good way to know where your ferret is if he has run of the house.
Bitter Apple – A bad-tasting liquid or paste intended to stop pets from chewing things ( This I recommend you have)
How do I ferret proof my home?

You must keep in mind your ferret’s safety at all times. Dangers lurk everywhere in the home for the ferret and are not always obvious. The best way to to see what your ferret can get into is to get down on the floor and see things the way they do. Remember, your ferret will check everything out and can get into places you’d never dream of!Here are some tips to guide you.HOLES & SPACES
Make sure that there are no holes or spaces under cabinets, refrigerators, stoves and other appliances and make sure they are blocked off. Cover any holes in walls or mouldings, around plumbing or window frames. Ferrets have flexible skeletons and can fit into the tiniest of places. If the head fits, the body will follow!

FURNITURE:
Ferrets love to climb up inside furniture and mattresses. They will scratch up the stuffing and make a nice bed for themselves. (Mine got into my bed box spring!) Cover the bottom of your mattresses and box springs with either heavy fabric or screening, wood or masonite, anything they can not scratch through. (I stapled screening on my box spring.) Always account for your ferrets before sitting in any recliner chair or rocking chair. Look below you before sitting on the couch. Ferrets love to hide in furniture and can be hard to see. Always check first.

ELECTRICAL CORDS & OUTLETS
Some ferrets love to chew on electrical cords. Others like to investigate outlets. Either keep these items out of reach or spray with Bitter Apples to deter chewing. Baby outlet plugs work great too.

CLEANING SUPPLIES
Be sure to keep all cleaning supplies up in the higher cabinets out of reach or in cabinets with strong baby latches. Ferrets are very adept at opening cabinets and drawers. Common household cleaning supplies can be deadly for the ferret.

WINDOWS & DOORS
Check all your windows and doors. Are they properly closed and latched? Make sure the window screens are sturdy and intact, with no holes. The ferret can make even the tiniest of holes larger and escape. Once outside survival is unlikely after a couple of days. Ferrets can not survive in the wild and should be prevented from escaping or running free at all times.

VERY IMPORTANT CAUTIONS:

Unfortunately, one of the most prevalent causes of premature ferret death is gastrointestinal blockage. You can protect your ferrets by keeping a close eye on what they like to chew on. Basically, ferrets like any type of foam rubber, soft rubber, couch stuffing, sponge and Styrofoam. Additionally, many ferrets also enjoy chewing on paper, plastic bags, cardboard and fabric. These will all cause gastrointestinal blockages if ingested. Look for signs such as furniture stuffing on the floor, under beds or under other furniture. Make sure your ferrets are not digging holes under the couch and crawling inside.Many house plants are poisonous, and ferrets are very intrigued by them. My ferrets have attempted to chew on the leaves of some of my plants in the past. I would suggest that you put all house plants out of your ferret’s reach.

Ferrets actually enjoy the smell of bleach, bar soap and some other household cleaners. Be careful when you are cleaning the bathroom or kitchen. Always rinse bathtubs very well after cleaning them.

Vets Choice glucosamine powder Is a powdered vitamin and antioxidant formation for dogs and cats. It Contains glucosamine HCL for strong joint and bone development.

glucosamine?

Healthy cartilage is absolutely essential for proper joint function and overall mobility. Happy, healthy, active dogs need healthy cartilage and a diet that supports overall well-being, including joint health. Glucosamine is an important nutrient for making joint cartilage, the protective covering over the ends of bones in a joint. Glucosamine products have been studied and used for the healing of skin wounds, stomach ailments, and joint problems. Their use in the relief and healing of the symptoms of joint disease is currently their biggest use. Glucosamine and chondroitin have been successfully used in humans, horses, dogs, and cats.

Glucosamine occurs naturally in several common dog food ingredients. Purina uses several poultry and meat sources and guarantees the level of glucosamine in several of their adult dog formulas. Glucosamine is also produced in the body itself.

Glucosamine will hydrate and lubricate your pet’s joints. The added hydration and lubrication will help to prevent arthritis in your dog. For this reason, Glucosamine is a good supplement in your dog’s diet. Pet owners of larger breed dogs that are susceptible to having joint and hip problems should particularly consider adding Glucosamine as a supplement to their dog’s diet.

Glucosamine is generally safe as part of a healthy and balanced diet. Your dog’s diet should include glucosamine to encourage joint health. Also your pet will not suffer from side effects with medications when glucosamine is part of your dog’s diet.

There are many different joints that can be affected by osteoarthritis in the dog, but by far, the most common is the hip joints. Hip Dysplasia is very common in many of the larger breeds of dogs. This condition greatly exacerbates the normal wear on the smooth cartilage protecting the bony surface of the joint. When this cartilage wears away there is a bone to bone contact, which creates the pain seen with arthritis. Even dogs that do not have hip dysplasia may have a decrease in this cartilage as they age, and will show signs of arthritis. In addition, aging dogs may also have arthritis in their knees, elbows, and shoulders and cartilage loss or damage that respond to glucosamine and chondroitin.

What is reverse sneezing in dogs? A reverse sneeze really isn’t a sneeze at all. While air is exhaled and forced out of the nose and mouth during a normal sneeze, reverse sneezing is forceful inhalation with air being sucked in. When it happens, you’ll hear a kind of deep, snorting sound. The dog appears to be in respiratory distress…. as if struggling to breathe or gasping for air… as in some sort of asthma attack. Episodes of reverse sneezing are usually brief, lasting from a few seconds up to a minute or two.Reverse sneezing can be very alarming for dog owners because it may seem that your dog is in respiratory distress. It is best described as a series of vigorous intakes of breath through the nose, often accompanied by your dog’s head bobbing up and down.
most reverse sneezing is nothing to worry about. It is the result of irritation of the nasal passages, often with dust. It is not life-threatening, and usually does not indicate any underlying disease.
An episode can be stopped if the dog is stimulated to swallow by either massaging the throat or briefly pinching off the nasal openings. Some dogs have reverse sneezing episodes so frequently that various medications may be needed to reduce the number of episodes.
 

Allergies play a role in other individuals. Often  this condition is seen during the spring months when there is a lot of pollen around.  If your pet is having these episodes more and more frequently, your veterinarian may try an antihistamine, or even an antihistamine/corticosteroid combination to see if the symptoms diminish or disappear. Most dogs can live with these occasional spasm, especially if you learn how to dissipate an episode by calming your dog down with words or petting.

The exact reasons for these episodes are unknown.  A reverse sneeze may look disturbing – many people fear that their dog is not breathing during these episodes – but it is not a harmful condition and there are no ill effects. Reverse sneezing attacks are generally quite brief and not life threatening.
In a small number of cases, reverse sneezing may indicate a more serious condition such as nasal polyps.

Kennel cough is a fairly common and highly contagious respiratory disease in dogs. It is also known as Infectious Tracheobronchitis. It is easily spread when dogs are in close contact with infected dogs, such as; kennels, veterinary hospitals or other boarding situations. Kennel cough may be caused by a variety of disease agents, either singly or in combination with each other.

While the cough may sound serious, this disease is often harmless and dogs recover uneventfully in a week or so. Symptoms may last as long as 20 days.

What causes kennel cough?  Several different viruses and airborne bacteria cause kennel cough. The most common are parainfluenza, Bordetella bronchiseptica, and mycoplasma. It is possible that canine adenovirus, reovirus, and canine herpes virus may also contribute. In most cases of kennel cough, the disease is multifaceted and will include a combination of bacterial and viral agents.

Symptoms:Your dog may have kennel cough if your dog sounds like it is trying to clear its throat whenever it coughs. If you also notice your dog coughing whenever it is exercising or doing some other physical activity, your dog may have kennel cough. The symptoms of kennel cough typically appear a few weeks after your dog has been exposed to other dogs with kennel cough or has inhaled the disease-causing virus or bacteria.

If your dog’s coughing is severe, your dog may cough continuously and even throw up food or mucus. Take note of the color of the mucus, as its color will indicate the severity of your dog’s condition. White mucus is not so severe while green mucus is more serious. If your dog’s coughs are accompanied by green mucus, take your dog to the veterinarian right away.

Can humans catch kennel cough from their dogs?  The answer is no.

Can my cat catch kennel cough from my dog? The answer is no.

My dog was diagnosed with kennel cough. Can my other dog catch it?  YES,  ABSOLUTLY! Try keeping your dogs separated for about a week and a half.  Kennel cough needs to be treated with antibiotics, its an upper respitory infection. Don’ t have the puppy/ dog near any other dogs..it is very contagious.

What are some things I can do to prevent this from happening again?  The best prevention is not to expose your dogs to other dogs, especially if they are puppies or have other illnesses. However, dog socialization is frequently necessary and can also be beneficial for your dog. The intranasal kennel cough vaccine is recommended twice a year for all dogs that attend shows, or are boarded. The vaccine provides immunization within 72 hours. If you know your dog will be in contact with several other dogs, it is best to have the dog vaccinated a week prior to their exposure.

How long does it take for kennel cough to go away?  Kennel Cough typically lasts 1 to 2 weeks and your dog will normally be as active and eat the same as she always has.

Learning how to clean dog ears is rarely at the top of a dog owner’s to-do list, but it’s an important way to prevent some common health problems. Your dog’s ears are the perfect environment to grow bacteria and yeast, which can lead to serious infections. But, taking time to check your dog’s ears and clean them regularly will keep him happy and healthy.

Things You’ll Need:

• Cotton Swabs
• Pet Ear Cleaners

If your dog’s ears are healthy but dirty looking, you can clean them with a commercial dog ear wash. It’s best to clean your dog’s ears in the bathroom or where you won’t mind a mess.

Put a generous amount of cleaner in each ear and massage the base of the ears for thirty seconds. Then stand back and let your dog shake his head. This is very important for preventing ear infections. Wipe the visible part of the inner ears with a cotton ball or tissue to remove any excess cleaner. Don’t use a Q-tip in your dog’s ear; it could damage his ear drum.

Dog breeds with long ears, such as hounds and spaniels, or dogs that swim a lot will need to have their ears cleaned once a week. Otherwise, as long as your dog’s ears look healthy, you should only need to clean them once a month. Ask your veterinarian for specific instructions and what’s best for your dog.

It is never a good idea to let a Puppy play with your hands or feet – no matter how cute it seems. This teaches the  Puppy it is ok to bite skin. Even though tiny puppies are playing tug-of-war with your big finger is cute, it is teaching a very bad habit! Never let a puppy do something once that you do not want him to repeat. It is far easier to prevent bad habits from developing that it is to retrain an older puppy or adult dog.

Things You’ll Need:

1.  Dog Leashes

2.  Rope Dog Toys

3.  Vinyl Dog Toys

4.  Fleece Dog Toys

5.  Canvas Dog Toys

6.  Puppy Treats

7.  Frisbees

• Begin your training early – when your puppy is 6 weeks old, if possible.

• Teach your puppy that biting hurts you. When he bites, give a sharp “no!” or “ouch!” – or even a yelp like a dog would make. This is the same reaction that your puppy would get from another puppy if he bit too hard during play. It teaches him that he’s been too rough, and the odds are that he’ll be more gentle next time.

• Remove your hand slowly – don’t jerk it away – and give your puppy a toy that he can chew on without damage.

• If your puppy ignores your reaction and bites again, repeat your “no!,” “ouch!” or yelp, and leave the room for a few minutes. Let your puppy know that when he bites, he will lose his playmate. This, too, mirrors the reaction he would get from another puppy if he played too roughly.

• Be persistent in your training. As your puppy’s behavior improves and his bites are softer, continue to yelp or give a sharp “no!” or “ouch!” whenever he puts his teeth on you. Make it clear that all bites are painful and unacceptable to humans.

Hamsters are popular pets for many reasons.  They are quiet, almost odorless, and have cute facial expressions.  They are easy to care for in respect to housing and food and come in an extensive range of colors and patterns.  Once hamsters are hand tamed, they become very friendly little pets.  Hamsters are inexpensive to purchase, easy to care for, do not take up  of space, and don’t create any disturbance or make much of a mess.  In addition to all these wonderful qualities they are lovable, cuddly, and endearing.

Hamsters are social creatures that like to play and love to be handled.  You should not put a hamster in a cage and forget about him.  You should always want to make friends and socialize your pets.  This means handling them. Hamsters love to play!  You will notice that your hamster tends to play in the evening or at night time. This is because hamsters are nocturnal creatures.

Purchasing The Right Cage For Your Pet:

Hamster cages vary in size, but it is advisable to get the biggest cage you can afford.  The bigger and roomier the cage, the more room you will have to fit all of the accessories such as food dishes, water bottles, and toys. Hamsters love to play so give them enough room to exercise. 

What Accessories You Need For Your Hamsters Cage:

Food Dish: Ceramic dishes are best. Hamsters like to play and sit in there bowls and they can tend to tip over if the bowl is made up of plastic.

Water Bottle: There are a few types of water bottles. Glass, Clear plastic, colored ones and so on. I preffer the see through ones this way you can see if the bottle is dirty. Always make sure your pet has fresh water at all times. Change its water at least once a day!

Bedding: Carefresh Bedding is always a good choice, If you don’t like the carefresh you can purchase pine, wood shavings or wood chips.  NEVER use cedar chips or shavings in the bedding of any small mammal. Cedar contains phenols which causes upper respiratory problems when inhaled.  Never put towels or clothes in your hamsters cage, they can chew on them and and ingest pieces of cloth. This is dangerous to your pet.  If you want to add extra comfort to your pets cage you can purchase what they call fluff.  You can place it on a corner of the cage where your pet sleeps and they love to cuddle up in it.

Exercise wheel or Playground

Cage:Always make sure your cage is big enough for all your pets accessories such as water bottle, food dish, toys, wheel and for your pet to play and exercise in.  Just imagion how you would want your home to be if you were the one living in there.  You should clean your hamsters cage once a week to keep your pet happy and healthy.  Usually hamsters droppings are small and hard. They usually go to the bathroom in one spot of the cage. They have hamster litter pans as well that I personally think is really cute and does work! The toilet area should be cleaned everyday and new shavings should be applied to this spot.

What To Feed Your Hamster:

Feeding a hamster is quite simple. Use a specially designed kind of hamster food mix a couple of times a day, and feed it with some fruit and vegetable everyday.  Commercially prepared pelleted food contains all the necessary nutrients your hamster needs and should make up the majority of the hamsters diet.
If the hamster hasn’t tried a certain food before, don’t give it a lot to begin with so that the digestive system gets a chance to get used to it.

Recommended Veggies to feed your hamster include carrots, spinach, lettuce, and corn.  Some owners say there hamsters like bananas, grapes and apples. Always be sure to wash fruits and veggetables thouroghly before giving to your pet.

Providing treats for your hamster will ensure that your hamster gets all the nutrients it needs. Alfalfa is good as well.  Most pets like crunchy treats, and the hamster is no exception. Besides being tasty, they help keep his teeth in good condition. Most crunchy treats and snacks also contain ingredients enriched with vitamins and minerals.

Its always good to provide your hamster with gnawing sticks it keeps there teeth trim and healthy. There teeth grow constantly through out there lifetime. 

Grooming

Hamsters are clean animals and require little or no grooming. You can gently brush your hamster to comb out any loose hairs.

Have Fun With Your Hamster!